We love sharing the science behind your skincare routine. With us, it’s always research over hype, so you can make informed choices that support long-term skin health.
Cleansing happens every day, sometimes twice, which makes it one of the biggest cumulative influences on your skin barrier, for better or worse. If your skin is sensitive or prone to eczema, the cleanser you choose matters more than almost any other step in your routine.
A quick note before we start: this post covers skincare habits that support comfortable, resilient skin. It isn't medical advice, and if you're managing diagnosed eczema, it's worth working alongside a dermatologist on treatment, this is about the everyday cleansing choices that complement that care.
Why cleansing is a bigger deal than it seems
The skin barrier relies on an intact layer of lipids and skin cells to hold moisture in and keep irritants out.[1] Harsh surfactants can strip away those protective lipids along with dirt and oil, and in eczema-prone skin, that barrier is often already compromised at a structural level, with lower lipid content and impaired barrier proteins to begin with.[2] That combination, an already-vulnerable barrier plus a stripping cleanser, is a common reason cleansing routines quietly make sensitive skin worse over time.
What to look for in a gentle cleanser
A pH close to skin's natural level. Healthy skin sits at a slightly acidic pH, around 5, which supports both barrier enzyme activity and a balanced skin microbiome.[3] Many traditional soaps and synthetic surfactants are alkaline, closer to 9 or 10, which can disrupt that balance with repeated use. A pH-balanced, mild cleanser works with your skin's chemistry instead of against it.
Gentle, low-foaming surfactants. A cleanser doesn't need to foam aggressively or leave skin feeling squeaky-tight to be effective. That tight, stripped feeling is usually a sign that a cleanser removed more of the skin's natural lipids than necessary.
No synthetic fragrance. Fragrance is one of the most common triggers of irritation in leave-on and rinse-off products alike, and it adds no functional benefit to a cleanser.
A short, intentional ingredient list. Fewer ingredients means fewer opportunities for irritation, and it's easier to identify what's actually helping or hurting your skin.
How often (and how) to cleanse
For sensitive or eczema-prone skin, cleansing once in the evening, to remove the day's buildup, sunscreen, and product, is often enough. A gentle rinse with lukewarm water in the morning can be sufficient before applying the rest of your routine. Hot water, like harsh surfactants, strips protective lipids faster than lukewarm water does.
Applying cleanser with clean fingertips rather than a washcloth or brush also avoids adding mechanical friction on top of any chemical stripping, another small way to reduce the total stress placed on the barrier during cleansing.
Cleansing as barrier support, not just a first step
It's easy to think of cleansing as a neutral first step before the “real” skincare begins. In practice, it's already shaping how your barrier holds up for the rest of the day. A cleanser that respects your skin's pH and lipid balance sets up everything that follows, your serum, your moisturizer, to actually work as intended, rather than trying to repair damage the cleansing step just created.
The takeaway
A genuinely gentle cleanser is pH-balanced, low-foaming, free of synthetic fragrance, and simply formulated. For sensitive or eczema-prone skin, getting this one step right does more for long-term barrier health than almost any serum or treatment layered on top of it.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my cleanser is too harsh? A tight, squeaky or stripped feeling immediately after cleansing is a common sign that a cleanser is removing more than surface oil and debris.
Is it bad to wash your face twice a day? Not necessarily, but for dry, sensitive or eczema-prone skin, cleansing once in the evening and rinsing with water in the morning is often gentler and just as effective.
Does pH really matter in a cleanser? Yes. Skin's natural pH is close to 5, and cleansers far outside that range can disrupt both barrier function and the skin's microbiome.[3]
References
- Elias PM. Skin barrier function. Current Allergy and Asthma Reports. 2008;8:299–305. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11882-008-0048-0
- Cork MJ, Robinson DA, Vasilopoulos Y, et al. New perspectives on epidermal barrier dysfunction in atopic dermatitis: gene-environment interactions. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2006;118(1):3–21. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaci.2006.04.042
- Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006;28(5):359–370. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
